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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.